I admit it – despite my best efforts to reform – at times I’m a sucker for a wine label. If the label conveys an understated elegance, makes me think of a more sophisticated time or embodies a certain simplicity of form – rather than the brash or (even worse) cutesy marketing so prevalent in the wine industry today – then I’m definitely giving the bottle a second look. For me, the restraint of labels like Darioush, Clos St Michel and Sheridan hint at the luxury within.

That’s not to say that all wine bearing a refined label is superior (I think the Clos Pegase Merlot is a disappointing offering with an engaging label) or that more “unique” or flamboyant labels always hide inferior offerings (Krupp Brothers produce cleverly-marketed wines that clearly stand on their own in the glass). After all, we all know we’re more interested in what’s in a bottle than what’s portrayed on the label – but as most marketers would admit . . . labels are a great way for wineries to separate themselves from their competitors. So I’m sure lots of money goes into developing the “right” label for a winery or particular wine offering.

Which brings me to Lail Vineyards’ 2007 Blueprint Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley – a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot that was produced in 1788 cases. I was originally drawn to the Blueprint Cabernet series due to its patrician label – a monochromatic profile of a robin superimposed on a grape cluster with leaves, all portrayed in subtle shades of light blue, with the wine’s name and producer in elegant blue script on a black background. It spoke to me both as an oenophile and aesthete, and I was drawn in before ever knowing anything about Lail Vineyards or the wonderful wines they produce. I’ve tried the Blueprint Cabernet series several times since, and they never fail to impress. I opened a bottle of the 2007 Blueprint Cabernet this past weekend, and was again delighted by the result.

According to Robert Parker, who gave it 90 points in his review in The Wine Advocate (12/09), the 2007 Blueprint Cabernet “exhibits plenty of deep black currant fruit intertwined with hints of white chocolate, cocoa, and background oak. It possesses good density, medium body, and sweet tannin.” I think that’s a fair description (I’m sure Mr. Parker was holding his breath to see whether I agreed with him or not), but perhaps understates the depth and complexity of this enchanter. In addition to the nuances noted in that review, I think there’s also a good bit of other dark fruits – including dark cherries, blackberries and raisins – and enough structure to appeal to most of us. Like its label, the 2007 Blueprint Cabernet possesses a subtle charm – it’s a wine that invites you to linger over its long, silky finish and savor every fading flavor.

Parker suggests consuming it through 2019, but from my perspective it’s currently in its prime.

Cheers!

Suggested pairings:

In A Sentimental Mood – Duke Ellington & John Coltrane (1963)
I Got It Bad (And That Ain’t Good) – Nina Simone (1962)