A trip to Chicago would not be complete without experiencing Spiaggia, the Windy City’s cathedral of fine Italian dining, particularly if you’re lucky enough to be staying nearby at The Drake or have spent an afternoon shopping along the Magnificent Mile.

Spiaggia, the only four-star Italian restaurant in Chicago, is celebrated for its modern and creative Italian cuisine, precise service and spectacular views of Lake Michigan. It receives consistent industry praise, and was recently nominated for Outstanding Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation.

Spiaggia also has a long history of receiving wine-related accolades. For example, it holds a Best of Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator, and is a staple on Wine Enthusiast’s annual list of America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants. Spiaggia currently offers over 700 wines, but there seems to be an underlying theme toward hard-to-find Italian gems from small but talented, family run producers. Rest assured, however, there are also the heavyweights you would expect from an award-winning wine list – for example, an impressive eight wines from the incomparable Giuseppe Quintarelli, the famed Amarone producer. (While I love Amarone, we stuck to a more affordable – yet really enjoyable – 1999 Brunello di Montalcino from Podere Brizio during our last visit.)

Spiaggia’s wine list is overseen by Rachael Lowe, Spiaggia’s Head Sommelier & Beverage Director. Lowe joined Spiaggia in the spring of 2009, after having crafted the wine programs at Chicago’s revered Brindille, Naha and Trump International Hotel & Tower. Her broad sommelier experience also includes stops at Café Gray, the Mandarin Oriental and Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (at The London) in New York, as well as Michelin-starred Bouchon in Yountville. Lowe also oversees the wine list at Café Spiaggia (the sister restaurant next door), where she has recently implemented a truly global wine list (with the exception of Champagne, almost all of the wine at Spiaggia is Italian) that exclusively features women winemakers.

Lowe holds an advanced sommelier degree from the Court of Master Sommeliers (in connection with which she was awarded the Rudd Scholarship for top exam performance). She also holds various certifications through the Wine & Spirits Education Trust and the American Sommelier Association, and plans to sit for the prestigious master sommelier exam in 2016.

Lowe has already received many industry recognitions, including the top prize at the 2010 Ruinart Chardonnay competition (hosted by Ruinart and the Guild of Sommeliers), the 2010 Jean Banchet Award (as Top Sommelier in Chicago), and the 2010 Rising Star Sommelier title from StarChefs.com. Lowe also recently joined Spiaggia’s Executive Chef, Tony Mantuano, for the cover of the August 2015 edition of Wine Enthusiast, which featured this year’s list of America’s 100 Best Wine Restaurants (and included a Q&A with Spiaggia’s dynamic duo).

While Lowe is subtlety putting her stamp on the Spiaggia wine list, it is clear that she also sees herself as a caretaker of the long tradition of fine wine at Spiaggia. “Having been open over 30 years, Spiaggia’s wine list has developed depth, complexity and breadth,” said Lowe. “Having been run by only four Wine Directors through the years, the opportunity for each Sommelier to impact the personality behind the compilation of wines has been great. I am lucky to have the opportunity to not only work with such an amazing collection, but to be able to add to it as I see fit.”

As for the expansion of the Spiaggia wine list under her expertise, Lowe is careful to ensure that Spiaggia keeps pace with the wine-industry’s movement toward boutique production and niche growing regions, while staying true to its Italian roots. “Though Piedmont and Tuscany will always have sturdy representation, I have taken to filling out some of the more up and coming regions such as the islands of Sicily and Sardinia, as well as Campania, Puglia, and Umbria,” said Lowe. With the continued globalization of food and wine, Lowe is also careful to offer a small collection of non-Italian wines that still pair well with Spiaggia’s award-winning cuisine. “In addition to working with Italian wines, the list has a wonderful selection of grower Champagnes, and I have added a small section of additional old world selections which I feel greatly compliment the food. Wine pairings are an option as well, now representing regions that are global in scope, from Austria, to Hungary and Croatia.”

Spiaggia’s wine list opens with an enlightening quote that compares the development of a classic restaurant with the maturation of a great wine – which I find quite àpropos when contemplating both the consistent quality of Spiaggia and its long-standing commitment to fine wine:

“Truly great wine expresses nuance, elegance, durability and finesse. With time, it also develops many layers of complexity. For the past thirty years, Spiaggia has not only cultivated grace, but in turn it has maintained it as a standard.”

While any selection from Spiaggia’s wine list is undeniably a special bottle, Lowe was kind enough to share recommendations in the following broad categories:

Splurge-Worthy:

“Sassicaia,” Tenuta San Guido, Toscana 1985 ($6,000): “From a legendary vintage and now truly difficult to find, this wine is opulent, with notes of cassis, black raspberry and cedar; it improves with age as does its great complexity.”

Hidden Gem:

Etna Rosso “Serra della Contessa” Benanti, Sicilia 2002 ($240): “From vineyards lying at the lowest altitude on the eastern side of the volcanic Mount Etna, many of the Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio vines are over 100 years of age. This is a beautiful wine with aromas of cranberries, leather, smoke and a touch of clove.”

On a Budget:

Teroldego, Foradori, Alto Adige 2012 ($75): “Elizabetta Foradori has been the pioneer behind getting this ancient grape varietal the recognition it deserves; likened to Syrah, this wine has dark fruits of black cherry, plum skin, dried herbs and damp forest floor.”

With its creative menu and sophisticated wine list, dining at Spiaggia is a truly memorable experience. (My wife and I will always remember our first time there, as will you.)

Spiaggia
980 North Michigan Avenue, 2nd Floor
Chicago, Illinois 60611 (Magnificent Mile)
312.280.2750
www.spiaggiarestaurant.com
Head Sommelier & Beverage Director: Rachael Lowe